Mount Everest (8,848 meters) is known as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Chomolungma in Tibet, China.

Team : Two climbing members Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas and 3 support members Ashok Roy, Bibhas Sarkar and Sourav Sinchan Mandal. 2 Sherpas : Pemba Chuti & Pasang Phutar from Darjeeling.

On 1st April, 2010, the team flew to Katmandu from Kolkata. Initially their plan was to climb Everest from North – Tibet side. But due to some administrative and bureaucratic glitch, no Indian were allowed that time to enter Tibet. They forced to change their plan and decided to go through Nepal side.

5th April. A small plane takes them to Luka (2,842 Mt.) within forty minutes. This is Hillary Tenzing Airport. The Everest Base Camp trek route is known as Hillary Tenzing route. 

Next day 6th April, their trek begins. A broad road going down northward along side the Dudhkosi River. After leaving Chiplang, Narning, they reach Phakding (2610 m). After crossing river they reach Manju. From here starts the Sagar Matha Sanctury Park. Beyond the sanctuary they cross Dudh Kosi River by a rope bridge and reach Joresale (2740 m).

Next day – A long uphill walk along the Dudh Kosi River. They reach a flat place marked out with stones. This is Everest View Point. They reach Namche Bazar (3440 m) at 2pm.

Then two days rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization. From Namche Bazar they move north-east gradually gaining height. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are seen all along in this route. After a steep climb they reached Thyangboche (3860 m). Situated here is one of the oldest Buddhist monastery.

After Thyangboche it was Pangboche (3930 m). Another morning another climb. North-east alongside the Imja River. The path, barren and desolate with practically no vegetation. By noon they reach Dingboche (4445 m). They would stay here for the night. Next morning the journey starts once more. It is a climb upward. On way there are lots of stupas with prayer flags.

They reach Thokla (4620 m). On right is Khumbu glacier. The team started early the next day. Another grueling day of steep climb. They reach a large well spread-out area. Here scattered the memorial tablets in remembrance to dead and departed mountaineers, attempting the mighty Everest. After a grueling climb of 2 hours the team reach Lobuche. They would stop here for the night. Next morning they start off for Gorakhshep. All around was known and unknown peaks. Only pebbles and rocks all around.

The peak Pumeri (6713 m) in front. On its right Lingturn (6639 m) and further right is Khumbutse (6639 m). Next to it is the Lola Pass. Behind Lola, rising from Tibet one glimpses Chhangse. Mountaineers attempting Everest from Tibet side, used this route keeping Chhangse on their right. On Lola’s right is not a peak but an extension of Everest’s, called Everest west shoulder (7268 m). Further right is Nuptse (7864 m). Between the rapture of this Everest West shoulder and Nuptse one occasionally sees Mt. Everest.

Late morning they reached Gorakhshep (5140 m). A few refreshments and moving onwards to the Everest Base Camp (EBC 5364 m). From here one path is going up to Kalapatthar, situated left of Gorakhshep. Everest is not seen from EBC, one has to climb Kalapatthar to see the beautiful view of Everest. Leaving Gorakhshep behind, they moved towards north-east and reach EBC after two hours. There are tents of other expeditions.

It is 14th April. A kitchen tent and toilet tent are set up. The cook Lilawati, Buddhi and helper Santosh Rana have a separate tent. There are three tents for members, one for Sherpas. There is also a tent for dining.

To keep them fit, it is always advisable for some mountaineering activity. They practice on Khumbu icefall. This is no less adventurous. A jump over ice crevasse or to climb up slopes. All these daring and often death defying. There’s ice sculpted by nature all around. The Camp 1 is situated on top of the icefall.

19th was a day for prayers. Sherpas are deeply religious people and very particular about their Buddhist rituals. Lamas came from all around to offer prayers for the success of the expedition. Prayer flags hanged all around.

The final lap of the journey begins. Target is camp one. The Sherpas had left a day earlier. On the 21st Debasish and Basanta start off early at dawn. The other supporting members, Ashok, Bibhas and Sourav stayed at base camp.

Basanta and Debasish climb through the Khumbu icefall surrounded by magnificent nature’s sculptures. This is a very dangerous climb and they skilfully use rope, ladder, Zoomer and Crampon. After an arduous climb of 10 hours they reached Camp 1 (6000 m). On this barren level grounds are tents of other expeditions and mountaineers. This is appropriately called the valley of silence. A single tent is pitched where they would cook, eat and sleep.

On the 22nd they return to Base camp. This up and down is the rule for mountaineers to acclimatize to the environment. They stay EBC for next 3 days while the Sherpas and cook party leave for camp 2 and 3 to prepare camps for Debasish and Basanta.

On 26th they start again for camp one and traverse the now familiar path in less than 6 hours. Next day they start for camp 2 in a south-easterly direction. It’s a straight path ahead. On their left side is Everest west shoulder. Straight is Lhotse, the forth-highest peak in the world. On right side is Nuptse mountain range. Surrounded on three sides by rocky walls and in the center this ice field of Khumbu. The only open space is on the Northwest. This is the famous Western Cwm. It takes 2 hours to reach Camp 2 (6400 m). These area is on the adjacent slopes of Everest. South-east is Lhotse and south-west is covered by Nupse Ridge. 

Adjoining Camp 2 an ice field. Next to it is the steep Lhotse slope rising vertically. Atop this lots of hanging glacier. 

On 29th April they leave the camp. A two-hour trek through icy landscape and after that a steep climb. It is the Lhotse face they climb. With the help of Crampon and ropes it is a slow movement upwards toward Camp 3. After an arduous climb of 7 hours they reached Camp 3 (7300 m).

Next day back to camp 2. On 1st May again back to the base camp. Now is the long wait for the weather forecast. Waiting for the green signal. Finally the clearance comes. The condition would be perfect at 7500 meter and above to attempt the peak between 14th and 16th May.

 Planning 16th May would be the D-day, on 12th May they start off. They reach Camp 2 on that day itself and stay for a day there. On 14th May they reach camp 3. On 15th May they set off for Camp 4 (7955 m) with oxygen cylinder. 

All around icy slopes. Crossing Lhotse face and turning north-east they came across a yellow brand of stones. Once again a field of ice. There is now hope tinged with uncertainty. Here they found a dead body. An adventurous mountaineer from Russia who had come with a lot of hope but got defeated by Mother Nature. Respects are paid to the departed soul.

Further north-east they came across a black stonewall. This is the Geneva spur. They reach South Col (7955 m). On the north was Mt Everest and on south Lhotse.

This is the death zone as there is very little oxygen in the atmosphere and breathing becomes difficult even while resting. Success was so near yet they could also see the cold face of death. The wind started howling from late afternoon. No movement was possible. The night was spent with the aid of oxygen.

Next day the wind dropped at 7’in the evening. They start off for the final assault on Mt Everest. The only luggage are oxygen cylinders, head torch, few medicines, water bottle, camera, flags, etc.

The temperature is now – 25o C. As they gain height the temperature further falls. The night is passed slowly pushing and progressing one step at a time. At around 4 in the morning a ring of light is seen and then the sun came up. It seemed that the Everest had cast a shadow on the sky. In front of them was the south summit. A small peak and after that Hillary step which is a steep rocky slope after that was the highest point in the world. Mt. Everest.

The time was 7-45 in the morning. They reach at the top of the World. On their southeast was Makalu, on south was Lhotse. There were nothing higher anymore except the sky. The Everest was conquered. The world was at their feet.

On the summit were 2 metallic pillars implanted. Those are wrapped by various prayer flags. At 9 am it’s time for the return. Mount Everest is truly behind them.

They return by the same way and reached camp 4 by 1 pm. Here they rest. Next day descend to camp 2. On 19th May back to the base camp. There is joy and elation in the camp. The next two days are spent for packing. From Namche back to Lukla on 24th May. From there on to Katmandu.

On 27th May back to Kolkata.

It was here that the dream had started on 1st April, 2010. Five adventure lovers making a daring attempt on Everest. The fairy tale has truly turned real.